Zombie preparation and Defense
Recommended weapons
Crossbow
Pros: Quiet, can add scopes and sights on to it. Silent, slower version of the rifle, you have the potential to have unlimited ammo, which is one of the most important aspects in a zombie apocalypse, you can also make more arrows
Where to find one: sport/hunting stores
Cons: Not very easy to get unless you raid a store, and slow reload time. Better for supply hunting when you're trying to be stealthy.
Why this is an awesome weapon: Most people don't know how to use one, so you will immediately come off as a bad-ass, and you will attract more babes and scare the sweet Jesus out of so many people, and probably zombies.
And when the poor chump comes along who asks, "Hey can I see your crossbow?" you get to go, "Sorry, son, it's not for little boys to play with."
Katana
Katana's are the very famous traditional cut-emphasis sword of Japan. Invented in the 11th century AD (as the tachi), they all possess the same basic profile; a two-hand grip, a small circular guard, a moderately curved blade, and (with a few rare exceptions) a long single edge. Katana's as such have a blade length no less than 24 inches and no longer than 32 inches; shorter swords were legally considered (in the Japanese feudal period) wakizashi and lawful for non-samurai to bear. Longer bladed swords fall into the dai-katana category (32 inch -36 inch blade) or the specialist no-dachi (36 inch - 42 inch blade) which is the Japanese equivalent version of the European Great Sword. A shorter (24 inch blade), more greatly-curved katana known as a chisa-katana was usually reserved for close-quarters indoor combat within one’s home.
While swords were third-priority weapons in Japanese warfare, (bows and eventually muzzle-loading firearms were first priority and polearms such as spears (yari) and halberds (Naginata) were second priority) a highly reverential “cult of the sword” developed in Japan through the Warring States and Tokugawa periods. The most sophisticated Japanese sword techniques were actually developed during the enforced peace of the Tokugawa shogunate (1601-1873) when unarmored duels and other informal encounters became the norm of samurai conflict.
A well-made katana can be a highly effective weapon for battling the walking dead. Being slightly thicker than its European counterparts, a katana is thereby slightly heavier than other swords of the same length, but this is not very noticeable with the normal two-hand method of use. The katana can easily cut through unarmored targets as long as the proper draw-cutting technique is used. This draw-cutting method is not innate (like linear hitting or chopping is) and requires considerable training to perform consistently, effectively, and safely. A skilled katana user can easily behead a human (breathing or otherwise) with a two-handed draw cut however an unskilled user can easily botch the cut—as Yukio Mishima’s lover-acolyte did during the famous author’s public seppeku. A “mall ninja” who just grabs a katana and starts hacking away at zombies will become zombie-chow in very short order.
During the Japanese feudal period, swords were often tested by cutting several bodies (of executed criminals) in half, the most common being two-body-blades, but going up to six-body-blades. What must be remembered is that test-cutting of human bodies was performed by highly skilled professionals, using extra-long grips for increased torque, and under ideal (non-combat) conditions.
Generally curved swords are more effective cutting tools (Japanese or not) than straight swords against unarmored targets. The katana’s hilt and blade curve reduces the effort needed to produce devastating draw-cuts when combined with the proper hip and shoulder twisting actions (torque) found in Japanese swordsmanship.
Traditional katana blades are composed as 3 to 9 piece forge-welded “sandwiches” of various grades of hard and soft laminated (“pattern-welded” or “Damascus”) steel blanks. Traditional katana’s are also deferentially tempered so the back and belly of the blade remain somewhat soft and flexible but the cutting edge is very hard (about 62 on the Rockwell scale). “Flexible” must be seen in context; a good katana can be flexed up to 2-3 degrees out of line and spring back to true with no damage, a properly forged European sword can be flex-tested 5-7 degrees with no damage.
While the entire katana edge is sharp, it is sharpest usually anywhere from 3-12 inches from the tip. Some well made katana tips (kissaki) are even comparable to a modern scalpel. This was done to encourage the samurai to keep their distance when using the weapon; this same advice will be helpful in the fight against the undead. Properly forged katana’s have a “distal taper” being slightly thicker nearest the guard than the tip; this aids in making the katana stronger nearest the hilt for making parries and aids in balance as well. Traditional katana’s use a hybrid-convex blade and edge profile which, when combined with the very hard tempered edge and careful polishing-sharpening, creates a very long lasting, low-drag, draw cutting blade.
The katana is not without drawbacks. A katana has only one sharp edge as opposed to a double-edged European sword; this was primarily meant to allow the katana to block with the dull back to reduce the risk of damage to the blade, though depending on the zombie being faced the second use will not help you very much. The polishing-sharpening method also created a very “porous” blade surface that is highly vulnerable to rusting. The butt-end of a katana cannot, unlike many other swords, be used to strike a hard surface like a human skull—such “pummeling” is very likely to destroy the wood grip in very short order. The 3/4 length katana tang is held to the wood grip by a single bamboo pin—inspections of this potential weak point must be frequent, especially if the katana is being used regularly in combat or practice. Finally, the cloth-cord grip wrapping needs to be periodically tightened or even replaced when ruined by sweat or blood.
The great majority of “katana’s” found in the West are not actual weapons, they are mass produced stainless-steel “wall-hangers” that can come apart with a hard swing in the air, let alone contacting a substantive target like a human body. There actually are some very good introductory “use” katana’s being manufactured in China—they retail for about $800 and it would take a high-level kenjutsu expert to discern or obtain any actual combat difference between these affordable blades and any heirloom custom made katana.
Overall the katana is one of the best melee weapons against the undead as long as a user is able to learn the basic draw cutting technique. In terms of cutting, many, professionally opinionated or not, consider the katana a great weapon. Even though a katana can last a very long time, it does require cleaning after every fight as soon as possible to avoid damage.
Colt M1911 Pistol
Pros:
The 45 ACP cartridge is an excellent CQB pistol gun fighting round - It hits hard and can be more easily managed at speed.
. It's the recoil of the 45 ACP cartridge, itself, that is so very controllable and a lot easier to shoot straight - Especially when compared to other really, 'snappy' center fire pistol cartridges like: 40 S&W, 357 SIG, or 9mm + P pistol ammunition.
. The 1911 is very slim and easy to carry.
. The 1911's balance feels very good in your hand, and points quite well. (Almost, 'instinctively'!)
. There are any number of custom 1911 parts, and builders; consequently, a 1911 is easy to modify and repair.
The 1911's design and operating characteristics are well known and widely trusted.
. A 1911's trigger can be, both, safely and beautifully tuned!
. 1911's are able to be made highly accurate - This is, especially, true of the modern pistols.
. 'Gun snobs' and, professional pistoleros prefer to be seen in public more with a 1911 pattern pistol than any other style or type of pistol
. Good, well proven, operator controls and user safety system.
Safely assembles and disassembles.
. Better than average drop safety system.
Cons:
A 1911 is larger than many other pistols.
A small percentage of users have hands that are too small to grip or shoot a 1911 well.
. Shooters who are only modestly skilled and/or afraid of recoil are inherently afraid of the 45 ACP caliber in general and the 1911 pattern pistol in particular.
. The 1911 is heavy.
. In 1911 clones: Double stack magazines are really heavy; and this includes the polymer frames, too.
. You've got to wear a strong gun belt and a good quality holster in order to COMFORTABLY carry a 1911 around with you all day long.
. Compared to a Glock Model 21, or 30, (and, maybe, a Model 36) your typical 1911 pattern pistol is an unmistakable maintenance whore.
. All of the unmodified 1911 frames are low capacity, and won't hold more than 8 rounds in a standard size magazine.
. The 1911's design is not particularly sand or dirt tolerant.
. Historically, 1911 patterns do not, 'top load' (+1) as reliably as other pistol designs. (However, I should add that - in spite of how common this practice is today - no semiautomatic pistol will (+1) top load with 100% reliability.)
. It's going to cost more to acquire and more to maintain a vast majority of 1911 pattern pistols. . There's no decocker; and you always have to be extra careful whenever the hammer has to be manually lowered.
357. Magnum
Yes, I realize this is a revolver, which might turn off some folks who like the higher bullet capacity of a semi-auto handgun, but really, during a zombie apocalypse, a handgun is a last-resort weapon. By the time you’re down to having to use a handgun when facing zombies, you want accuracy and plenty of boom-boom; you don’t want the spray-and-pray action that semi-autos can lead to.
Pros
Power: The 125 gr JHP .357 is known to be one of the most effective anti-personnel rounds ever developed. With heavier bullets it reaches the minimum power level considered adequate for hunting, just.
Versatility: Ability to shoot anything from light .38 target loads to full power .357 loads. Adequate for deer size game under the right conditions (but you’re not hunting deer).
Accuracy: There are always exceptions, but I've never seen an American made .357 in good repair that wasn't capable very good accuracy. 2" at 25 yards. Often better.
Reloadability: Straight wall rimmed revolver cases are very easy to reload. You don't have to pick up your brass. Great choice for a range gun.
Cons:
Limited capacity, slow to reload.
Heavy, difficult to conceal. The small ones that aren’t a total Bitch to shoot.
There are better options for concealed carry. For a house gun or for recreational use a .357 is great. The limited capacity is not much of a disadvantage; most gunfights end quickly after only a few rounds fired. Somebody's either dead or has run off.
Barret M107
Yes, this big rifle is a lot to carry around, but you will want it when you need it. And really, this thing is made for placing on a rooftop, where you can safely blast away at the walking undead below. Comes in .50 caliber and should be more than enough to drop pretty much anything (unless you suck at aiming). If you don’t have a scope, check out your local Wal-mart, or gun-supply shop, that’s if you can get there through the zombie horde. I recommend using this when you’re at a safe house, never try to use it on the run, for one the recoil would destroy your arm if you’re trying to snipe on the run, a zombie could easily sneak up on you while using it due to the scope and the fact that you can’t see all angles while aiming that close, also it’s a good rifle, but combined with .50 caliber bullets it’s a machine. If you can successfully line up multiple zombies in a line it will go through at least a few of them.
Machete
First off, a better suited melee weapon for decapitation and breaking skulls would be something heavier, like a shovel, or a big, two-handed sword, but I would suggest the machete because it’s a lot easier to carry, not all sword are built to stand the punishment and its easier and less energy draining to swing. It’s also easier to find and a lot easier to use for people who have no experience with melee weapons and/or those that are unskilled with similar weapons. What you really need is a heavy chopping weapon, something with a little length to it that keeps you away from gnashing teeth and clawing fingers. Other good choices for melee weapons would be a spiked mace, a spiked war hammer or something similar. You want something that can chop, but you really need that blunt-force trauma, a weapon that can punch through skulls and hit the brain. So, go for heavier instead of sharper, but a spike or heavy point will also be useful, now I understand that not everyone will be strong enough to use some of the weapons I just listed which is one of the reasons I like the machete, also some of the weapons listed are hard to find, and a machete can be found practically anywhere.
Wakizashi
The Wakizashi is the second sword commonly worn and used by the Samurai. At first glance it is a scaled down katana, since it's a lighter one handed weapon with space for your second hand as well, it would seem that the only advantage the katana holds is being longer. However, katana and Wakizashi were rarely made in the same manner, and the quality of even a true to life Wakizashi will vary. It was primarily an "honor-blade" for the samurai, used to commit seppuku. However it was also a self-defense blade, samurai were not allowed to take their katana to certain places or in certain buildings, but the Wakizashi never left his side. In the battle against the undead, it is a good weapon alternative to the katana, due to the fact that the only difference is length, making this an ideal indoor weapon and even outdoors if you have the proper strength and coordination to do damage with it.
Short swords
Ideal for fighting zombies within indoor conditions or in enclosed spaces, the Short sword. The short sword is an excellent back-up weapon. While you do have to get close to a zombie to get a kill due to its short length, its small size allows easy carrying options and conceal-ability when you’re on the run. Good examples of competent short swords include the Roman Gladius* or the Spartan Xiphos. Though these were often used behind shields so don't go in feeling these are the only weapon you'll need. Also, many newer variants of shortswords now feature a straighter blade, and are titanium-bladed, while integrated with lead for a crushing, slashing blow that largely eliminates the possibility of it getting stuck in a zombie's head.
Trench knives
A combination of a brass knuckle handgrip with a long spike or knife blade on one end, these are among the best weapons to use if you are forced into close-quarter combat with the living dead. Originally developed for trench warfare in World War I, the brass knuckle can bash a human skull with enough force, and the knife or spike can puncture a metal helmet—to say nothing of a skull—with ease. The trench knife is small, lightweight, and due to its grip, easy to pull out, making it a very effective hand-to-hand weapon. Until recently most of the trench knives that could be found were the poor quality World War 1 models. However Cold Steel (a company well known for their quality) has resurrected the design. World War I models are extremely rare nowadays and the few that do exist are most likely not in combat condition, due to the fact that they are ninety-year-old museum pieces. If you want a good trench knife, you will likely have to order one online from weapon specialists, such as Cold Steel, before the zombie apocalypse.
In summary, while trench knives are very good for hand-to-hand combat, they can be extremely hard to come by, unless bought online. Currently they are illegal in California, but as always after the fall of civilization, no one will stop you from committing crimes.
Tomahawks
Tomahawks are small light weight axes, they have the cutting power of a hatchet and most have a pike end. These are one of the best weapons in the right hands. The cutting edge is perfect of severing an infected neck and the pike is excellent at piercing a skull. They CAN be thrown but a kill with a thrown tomahawk is very difficult and should not be attempted. The tomahawk is also a fantastic multi-tool if the right tomahawk is chosen. A RMJ Tactical is by far the best on the market. They can be used to break locks, shatter windows, tip a car open like a tin can, chop through concrete blocks (seriously.....check it out on YouTube ),puncture tires, tear down walls, cut down saplings, and even dig holes. The only downside is that they don't have very much reach and may become stuck in the head of an infected.
Pros: Quiet, can add scopes and sights on to it. Silent, slower version of the rifle, you have the potential to have unlimited ammo, which is one of the most important aspects in a zombie apocalypse, you can also make more arrows
Where to find one: sport/hunting stores
Cons: Not very easy to get unless you raid a store, and slow reload time. Better for supply hunting when you're trying to be stealthy.
Why this is an awesome weapon: Most people don't know how to use one, so you will immediately come off as a bad-ass, and you will attract more babes and scare the sweet Jesus out of so many people, and probably zombies.
And when the poor chump comes along who asks, "Hey can I see your crossbow?" you get to go, "Sorry, son, it's not for little boys to play with."
Katana
Katana's are the very famous traditional cut-emphasis sword of Japan. Invented in the 11th century AD (as the tachi), they all possess the same basic profile; a two-hand grip, a small circular guard, a moderately curved blade, and (with a few rare exceptions) a long single edge. Katana's as such have a blade length no less than 24 inches and no longer than 32 inches; shorter swords were legally considered (in the Japanese feudal period) wakizashi and lawful for non-samurai to bear. Longer bladed swords fall into the dai-katana category (32 inch -36 inch blade) or the specialist no-dachi (36 inch - 42 inch blade) which is the Japanese equivalent version of the European Great Sword. A shorter (24 inch blade), more greatly-curved katana known as a chisa-katana was usually reserved for close-quarters indoor combat within one’s home.
While swords were third-priority weapons in Japanese warfare, (bows and eventually muzzle-loading firearms were first priority and polearms such as spears (yari) and halberds (Naginata) were second priority) a highly reverential “cult of the sword” developed in Japan through the Warring States and Tokugawa periods. The most sophisticated Japanese sword techniques were actually developed during the enforced peace of the Tokugawa shogunate (1601-1873) when unarmored duels and other informal encounters became the norm of samurai conflict.
A well-made katana can be a highly effective weapon for battling the walking dead. Being slightly thicker than its European counterparts, a katana is thereby slightly heavier than other swords of the same length, but this is not very noticeable with the normal two-hand method of use. The katana can easily cut through unarmored targets as long as the proper draw-cutting technique is used. This draw-cutting method is not innate (like linear hitting or chopping is) and requires considerable training to perform consistently, effectively, and safely. A skilled katana user can easily behead a human (breathing or otherwise) with a two-handed draw cut however an unskilled user can easily botch the cut—as Yukio Mishima’s lover-acolyte did during the famous author’s public seppeku. A “mall ninja” who just grabs a katana and starts hacking away at zombies will become zombie-chow in very short order.
During the Japanese feudal period, swords were often tested by cutting several bodies (of executed criminals) in half, the most common being two-body-blades, but going up to six-body-blades. What must be remembered is that test-cutting of human bodies was performed by highly skilled professionals, using extra-long grips for increased torque, and under ideal (non-combat) conditions.
Generally curved swords are more effective cutting tools (Japanese or not) than straight swords against unarmored targets. The katana’s hilt and blade curve reduces the effort needed to produce devastating draw-cuts when combined with the proper hip and shoulder twisting actions (torque) found in Japanese swordsmanship.
Traditional katana blades are composed as 3 to 9 piece forge-welded “sandwiches” of various grades of hard and soft laminated (“pattern-welded” or “Damascus”) steel blanks. Traditional katana’s are also deferentially tempered so the back and belly of the blade remain somewhat soft and flexible but the cutting edge is very hard (about 62 on the Rockwell scale). “Flexible” must be seen in context; a good katana can be flexed up to 2-3 degrees out of line and spring back to true with no damage, a properly forged European sword can be flex-tested 5-7 degrees with no damage.
While the entire katana edge is sharp, it is sharpest usually anywhere from 3-12 inches from the tip. Some well made katana tips (kissaki) are even comparable to a modern scalpel. This was done to encourage the samurai to keep their distance when using the weapon; this same advice will be helpful in the fight against the undead. Properly forged katana’s have a “distal taper” being slightly thicker nearest the guard than the tip; this aids in making the katana stronger nearest the hilt for making parries and aids in balance as well. Traditional katana’s use a hybrid-convex blade and edge profile which, when combined with the very hard tempered edge and careful polishing-sharpening, creates a very long lasting, low-drag, draw cutting blade.
The katana is not without drawbacks. A katana has only one sharp edge as opposed to a double-edged European sword; this was primarily meant to allow the katana to block with the dull back to reduce the risk of damage to the blade, though depending on the zombie being faced the second use will not help you very much. The polishing-sharpening method also created a very “porous” blade surface that is highly vulnerable to rusting. The butt-end of a katana cannot, unlike many other swords, be used to strike a hard surface like a human skull—such “pummeling” is very likely to destroy the wood grip in very short order. The 3/4 length katana tang is held to the wood grip by a single bamboo pin—inspections of this potential weak point must be frequent, especially if the katana is being used regularly in combat or practice. Finally, the cloth-cord grip wrapping needs to be periodically tightened or even replaced when ruined by sweat or blood.
The great majority of “katana’s” found in the West are not actual weapons, they are mass produced stainless-steel “wall-hangers” that can come apart with a hard swing in the air, let alone contacting a substantive target like a human body. There actually are some very good introductory “use” katana’s being manufactured in China—they retail for about $800 and it would take a high-level kenjutsu expert to discern or obtain any actual combat difference between these affordable blades and any heirloom custom made katana.
Overall the katana is one of the best melee weapons against the undead as long as a user is able to learn the basic draw cutting technique. In terms of cutting, many, professionally opinionated or not, consider the katana a great weapon. Even though a katana can last a very long time, it does require cleaning after every fight as soon as possible to avoid damage.
Colt M1911 Pistol
Pros:
The 45 ACP cartridge is an excellent CQB pistol gun fighting round - It hits hard and can be more easily managed at speed.
. It's the recoil of the 45 ACP cartridge, itself, that is so very controllable and a lot easier to shoot straight - Especially when compared to other really, 'snappy' center fire pistol cartridges like: 40 S&W, 357 SIG, or 9mm + P pistol ammunition.
. The 1911 is very slim and easy to carry.
. The 1911's balance feels very good in your hand, and points quite well. (Almost, 'instinctively'!)
. There are any number of custom 1911 parts, and builders; consequently, a 1911 is easy to modify and repair.
The 1911's design and operating characteristics are well known and widely trusted.
. A 1911's trigger can be, both, safely and beautifully tuned!
. 1911's are able to be made highly accurate - This is, especially, true of the modern pistols.
. 'Gun snobs' and, professional pistoleros prefer to be seen in public more with a 1911 pattern pistol than any other style or type of pistol
. Good, well proven, operator controls and user safety system.
Safely assembles and disassembles.
. Better than average drop safety system.
Cons:
A 1911 is larger than many other pistols.
A small percentage of users have hands that are too small to grip or shoot a 1911 well.
. Shooters who are only modestly skilled and/or afraid of recoil are inherently afraid of the 45 ACP caliber in general and the 1911 pattern pistol in particular.
. The 1911 is heavy.
. In 1911 clones: Double stack magazines are really heavy; and this includes the polymer frames, too.
. You've got to wear a strong gun belt and a good quality holster in order to COMFORTABLY carry a 1911 around with you all day long.
. Compared to a Glock Model 21, or 30, (and, maybe, a Model 36) your typical 1911 pattern pistol is an unmistakable maintenance whore.
. All of the unmodified 1911 frames are low capacity, and won't hold more than 8 rounds in a standard size magazine.
. The 1911's design is not particularly sand or dirt tolerant.
. Historically, 1911 patterns do not, 'top load' (+1) as reliably as other pistol designs. (However, I should add that - in spite of how common this practice is today - no semiautomatic pistol will (+1) top load with 100% reliability.)
. It's going to cost more to acquire and more to maintain a vast majority of 1911 pattern pistols. . There's no decocker; and you always have to be extra careful whenever the hammer has to be manually lowered.
357. Magnum
Yes, I realize this is a revolver, which might turn off some folks who like the higher bullet capacity of a semi-auto handgun, but really, during a zombie apocalypse, a handgun is a last-resort weapon. By the time you’re down to having to use a handgun when facing zombies, you want accuracy and plenty of boom-boom; you don’t want the spray-and-pray action that semi-autos can lead to.
Pros
Power: The 125 gr JHP .357 is known to be one of the most effective anti-personnel rounds ever developed. With heavier bullets it reaches the minimum power level considered adequate for hunting, just.
Versatility: Ability to shoot anything from light .38 target loads to full power .357 loads. Adequate for deer size game under the right conditions (but you’re not hunting deer).
Accuracy: There are always exceptions, but I've never seen an American made .357 in good repair that wasn't capable very good accuracy. 2" at 25 yards. Often better.
Reloadability: Straight wall rimmed revolver cases are very easy to reload. You don't have to pick up your brass. Great choice for a range gun.
Cons:
Limited capacity, slow to reload.
Heavy, difficult to conceal. The small ones that aren’t a total Bitch to shoot.
There are better options for concealed carry. For a house gun or for recreational use a .357 is great. The limited capacity is not much of a disadvantage; most gunfights end quickly after only a few rounds fired. Somebody's either dead or has run off.
Barret M107
Yes, this big rifle is a lot to carry around, but you will want it when you need it. And really, this thing is made for placing on a rooftop, where you can safely blast away at the walking undead below. Comes in .50 caliber and should be more than enough to drop pretty much anything (unless you suck at aiming). If you don’t have a scope, check out your local Wal-mart, or gun-supply shop, that’s if you can get there through the zombie horde. I recommend using this when you’re at a safe house, never try to use it on the run, for one the recoil would destroy your arm if you’re trying to snipe on the run, a zombie could easily sneak up on you while using it due to the scope and the fact that you can’t see all angles while aiming that close, also it’s a good rifle, but combined with .50 caliber bullets it’s a machine. If you can successfully line up multiple zombies in a line it will go through at least a few of them.
Machete
First off, a better suited melee weapon for decapitation and breaking skulls would be something heavier, like a shovel, or a big, two-handed sword, but I would suggest the machete because it’s a lot easier to carry, not all sword are built to stand the punishment and its easier and less energy draining to swing. It’s also easier to find and a lot easier to use for people who have no experience with melee weapons and/or those that are unskilled with similar weapons. What you really need is a heavy chopping weapon, something with a little length to it that keeps you away from gnashing teeth and clawing fingers. Other good choices for melee weapons would be a spiked mace, a spiked war hammer or something similar. You want something that can chop, but you really need that blunt-force trauma, a weapon that can punch through skulls and hit the brain. So, go for heavier instead of sharper, but a spike or heavy point will also be useful, now I understand that not everyone will be strong enough to use some of the weapons I just listed which is one of the reasons I like the machete, also some of the weapons listed are hard to find, and a machete can be found practically anywhere.
Wakizashi
The Wakizashi is the second sword commonly worn and used by the Samurai. At first glance it is a scaled down katana, since it's a lighter one handed weapon with space for your second hand as well, it would seem that the only advantage the katana holds is being longer. However, katana and Wakizashi were rarely made in the same manner, and the quality of even a true to life Wakizashi will vary. It was primarily an "honor-blade" for the samurai, used to commit seppuku. However it was also a self-defense blade, samurai were not allowed to take their katana to certain places or in certain buildings, but the Wakizashi never left his side. In the battle against the undead, it is a good weapon alternative to the katana, due to the fact that the only difference is length, making this an ideal indoor weapon and even outdoors if you have the proper strength and coordination to do damage with it.
Short swords
Ideal for fighting zombies within indoor conditions or in enclosed spaces, the Short sword. The short sword is an excellent back-up weapon. While you do have to get close to a zombie to get a kill due to its short length, its small size allows easy carrying options and conceal-ability when you’re on the run. Good examples of competent short swords include the Roman Gladius* or the Spartan Xiphos. Though these were often used behind shields so don't go in feeling these are the only weapon you'll need. Also, many newer variants of shortswords now feature a straighter blade, and are titanium-bladed, while integrated with lead for a crushing, slashing blow that largely eliminates the possibility of it getting stuck in a zombie's head.
Trench knives
A combination of a brass knuckle handgrip with a long spike or knife blade on one end, these are among the best weapons to use if you are forced into close-quarter combat with the living dead. Originally developed for trench warfare in World War I, the brass knuckle can bash a human skull with enough force, and the knife or spike can puncture a metal helmet—to say nothing of a skull—with ease. The trench knife is small, lightweight, and due to its grip, easy to pull out, making it a very effective hand-to-hand weapon. Until recently most of the trench knives that could be found were the poor quality World War 1 models. However Cold Steel (a company well known for their quality) has resurrected the design. World War I models are extremely rare nowadays and the few that do exist are most likely not in combat condition, due to the fact that they are ninety-year-old museum pieces. If you want a good trench knife, you will likely have to order one online from weapon specialists, such as Cold Steel, before the zombie apocalypse.
In summary, while trench knives are very good for hand-to-hand combat, they can be extremely hard to come by, unless bought online. Currently they are illegal in California, but as always after the fall of civilization, no one will stop you from committing crimes.
Tomahawks
Tomahawks are small light weight axes, they have the cutting power of a hatchet and most have a pike end. These are one of the best weapons in the right hands. The cutting edge is perfect of severing an infected neck and the pike is excellent at piercing a skull. They CAN be thrown but a kill with a thrown tomahawk is very difficult and should not be attempted. The tomahawk is also a fantastic multi-tool if the right tomahawk is chosen. A RMJ Tactical is by far the best on the market. They can be used to break locks, shatter windows, tip a car open like a tin can, chop through concrete blocks (seriously.....check it out on YouTube ),puncture tires, tear down walls, cut down saplings, and even dig holes. The only downside is that they don't have very much reach and may become stuck in the head of an infected.